Reference I Love (VI): Booze

http://www.theworldwidewine.com/Wine_articles/Wine_parties.php

One of the most intense pleasures I get while writing is doing the detail work.  Story and character are, naturally, of prime importance, but (as you can see from this blog) I love creating the world around them.  History has long been a passion, and while Fantasy is not strictly history its application can add a sense of grounding even when you throw in some really batty shit.  In an effort to keep enhancing my abilities to tell a compelling story, I keep my reading broad.  Most recently, I've been reading George Saintsbury's Notes On A Cellar-Book (1920).  I couldn't care less about which vintages he preferred, it's the detail that surrounds which catches my imagination.
  The role of the wine merchant and the importer were the first elements which caught my eye.  Not only dealing in individual bottles or cases for private consumption, these guys were handling casks and tuns.  The author recounts the names of a few reputable men who would never lead him wrong and the importers they preferred (though he suggests that extreme brand loyalty may have been somewhat unnecessary).  The quality and availability of the product these men were selling were a significant issues.  Wars and other more mundane logistical concerns hindered or shifted the trade in, or preference for, all kinds of goods.  In a time when hosting a fine dinner was a significant social requirement, having the right procurer was vital.
    How the author tastes is much more interesting than what he tastes.  Because the author tends to buy in larger volumes (talking of purchasing bottles of wine by the dozens), he approaches alcohol rather differently than most.  He preaches patience with certain wines and speaks of others as though they are sprinters, who flag over the long run.  He can make these assessments because he laid down a couple dozens and tasted them over the years.  With Scotch he recommends keeping a 10-14 gallon solera, blending in the new with the quality old stuff to create a more unified experience while simultaneously barrel-ageing it (a practice he replicated with various spirits in different quantities over the years).  He would also experiment with blending (bottled) single malt scotches from different distilleries at home, on a glass by glass basis.  Thinking of glasses, there is an entire chapter devoted to glassware.  Apparently, he quite literally put his money where his mouth was (referring more to the booze than the glassware).
    In many chapters, the author discusses overarching changes in tastes regarding alcohols.  Sweet champagne was the rule at one time, as opposed to the preponderance of modern bruts.  Scotches used to be darker and sweeter from being aged in sherry or madeira casks, the new ones were lighter and drier. Changing tastes also move from drinking Scotch in toddy form to whisky and soda.  Rums were traditionally darker and more tar-like.  Naturally, tastes continue to evolve, but it is fascinating to imagine the historic palate.  Did they crave sweeter alcohols because sugar was harder to come by?
    One of the real pleasures in reading old books is in divining the full implication of a statement.  Following a series of comments on American whiskeys, the author notes, "That they are or were generally drunk 'neat' is, I believe, the fact; and if any rational comparison of the state of America and England in regard to alcoholic liquor were made, this fact would have to be taken into 'high consideration.'"  Obviously the author does not hold American whiskey in high esteem (he had stated previously that it was only good for drinking straight, and not at all in other combinations).  Using this method of consumption as a basis for comparison may be implying that he felt Americans did not have a refined palate.  Potentially it related back to the Prohibitionist movement (which he makes frequent comment on), especially in America, suggesting that Americans abuse alcohol more often (encouraging the Prohibitionists).  Finally, his disdain for Americans taking their whiskey 'neat' suggests rather strongly that he rarely did likewise, which is rather interesting when considering that he spent many years living in Scotland.
    I could go on and on about all of this (I have done a fair amount of trimming to this post, believe it or not). His musings include a fair number of recipes for toddys, flips, and other concoctions which tantalize the reader (I admit, I tried a Scotch and milk last night).  There is a chapter about how to arrange your cellar wherein he discusses some of his residences through the years.  When you take your time working through a book of this nature, it can lead to research in all kinds of directions.  Granted, to get to all of the 'good stuff,' you must wade through his masses of literary allusion and staunch opinions, but he obviously had fun assembling this work.  If nothing else, skip to the end where he lists some choice menus.  Imagine taking part in some of the grand dinners and their associated libations.  GRRM, eat your heart out.