Tea (traditions)

As promised, today's installment of information in our exploration of the world relates to tea drinking and traditions around the globe.  Tea was my first "adult" beverage.  I remember feeling very grown up drinking tea with my Mom in the morning before school (this was something like the 3rd grade).  Yes, yes, it was only the women in my family who drank tea.  What of it?  It wasn't until my rebellious high school years that I started greasing my hair back and switched to the devil coffee.  The only other experience I had with tea as a youth was at the one Chinese restaurant in the area.  My, how times have changed.  Following in the footsteps of boutique coffee shops, a few specialized tea purveyors have cropped up in the USA.  It has taken my home country a long time to catch up to the rest of the world.
    The origins of tea are steeped in mythology, but most seem to agree that its drinking began in China (2727BC, if you want a date).  Originally, tea was used for its medicinal properties, often mixed with orange, ginger and other herbs.  Somewhere between 350 and 600AD, the demand necessitated the farming of tea trees.  Early on, tea was especially popular at Buddhist monasteries, where the properties of caffeine were appreciated as an aid for extended meditation.  Tea became a commodity at this point, sold in brick form, with amounts broken off at need.  Tea Classic (780AD) was the first major work on the subject, consisting of three volumes and detailing proper tea from seed to cup, including a tea ceremony using 27 pieces of equipment.  During the Sung Dynasty (690-1279AD) tea became more and more ritualized.  Tea was picked by young women with nails of a certain length (to the rhythmic beat of drums of cymbals), who were careful to not let the leaves touch their skin.  During this time, tea leaves were powdered and the drink was prepared with a whisk.  Cups became wider to accommodate this method of preparation.  Tea houses evolved and competitions began around the creation of the finest cup.  Eventually, custom returned to steeping tea leaves.  By the end of the 14th Century, tea was consumed by the commoners as well as the elite.  At this time, different methods of processing tea were developed, leading to the creation of many modern varieties, such as green, black, oolong, et cetera.  Modern day production and consumption remains high throughout China, which continues to use the beverage as both pleasure and medicine.
    They say records of tea drinking in India date back to 750BC.  Zen Buddhism's founder was said to have started its use.  Commercial production did not begin until the British East India Company bought up land to break China's monopoly.  Before that time, villages would pick the leaves from wild native plants to fill their needs.  Early on it was eaten pickled or as a sort of soup.  Later it was drunk with buffalo or yak's milk and seasoned with spices (today: cardamon, cinnamon, ginger and cloves).  Indian teas vary based on their region of origin.  During Colonial times, all of the best tea was exported, leaving locals with the dregs (seems like a theme).  Today, most Indians drink tea with milk and sugar and will ritually offer it to guests upon their arrival (home or business).  Busy streets in India are lined with tea stalls where patrons sit on low benches, drinking from small glass cups and conversing with neighbors.  Clay cups are used at train stations, which are smashed after use, as an offering to the earth and to ensure other castes haven't used them.  They may all share a love for tea, but some differences...

    Japan's history with tea began (much to their displeasure, I'm sure) in China.  Visiting monks were served tea by the Emperer Shomu (729AD) and decided to bring the beverage home.  Early on, tea was drunk on by imperial court nobles and Buddhist monks.  As tea production increased, its consumption spread to the nobility and the samurai class which participated in Chinese styled tea competitions (13th C).  Most famous to outsiders  is the Art of Tea, embodied in the Japanese tea ceremony (thank you "The Karate Kid"), which is steeped in Zen Buddhism and employs powdered green tea (matcha).  This new ceremony (aka not the Chinese one) developed between the 15th and 16th Century.  Proper execution of the tea ceremony is highly ritualized and can create a transcendental experience for both host and guest.  As in China, the production fine tea utensils became an art form appreciated and curated by practitioners.  With the growth in local tea production, its consumption spread to the lower classes (circa 15thC). Today, green tea is often served with or at the end of meals, with other varieties served with sushi or western style meals.  In temples and gardens, tea is generally served to the visitor with a tranquil view and a local sweet.

    Europe finally caught the tea bug in the 17th Century.  In 1606, the first shipments were sent to Europe by the Dutch East India Company.  The British East India Company (there seem to have been a bunch) placed its first order in 1664 to satisfy the interest sparked by Catherine of Braganza, Charles II's Portuguese princess. Tea was actually introduced to the English population via coffeehouses.  Until 1784, tea was so expensive that it inspired a healthy smuggling trade, including cutting it with other materials.  The custom of afternoon tea is said to have emerged in the early 19th Century (we all know about the little sandwiches and such, yes?).  At the time, it was common to serve only two meals a day (breakfast and dinner).  Tea time helped to bridge the gap (fashionable dinner could be served at 8PM).  "Low tea," observed by the elite usually happens around 4PM, while "high tea" for the middle or lower classes happens around 5-6PM (usually in place of dinner).  The "high" in high tea refers to the height of the table (usually the dinner table).  Tea gardens became popular in 1730, for capping off a night of dancing and fireworks with a refreshing cup.  Tea shops evolved in 1864 and became popular places for unescorted ladies to meet with their friends in public in a reputable manner.  A noteworthy side-effect of Britain's desire for tea was that the British EIC (which had the monopoly) took control of large portions of India to protect their investment.  While it did take a while for it to arrive, tea certainly transformed British culture (well, the Irish too, since they drink more tea than the English these days). 

    Tea arrived in Russia in 1638, following a diplomatic mission, as a present from the Mongolian Khan.  The Czar's representative refused the tea and the unwanted gift was handed over to the court in Moscow.  It did not become popular (or widely available) until the 1870s, and was limited at that time to aristocratic families, often for medicinal purposes.  The Russian "tradition" was codified by the 19th Century literary giants (Pushkin, Dostoevsky, Tolstoy, Chekhov), who helped to define the Russian national character.  In 1901, with the construction of the Trans-Siberian Railway, prices dropped dramatically and consumption jumped to one pound per person, per year.  Samovars (originally from Persia), able to maintain heat over long periods, were traditionally used to boil the water and became synonymous with Russian tea culture.  The Russian tea pot typically has three levels, with the bottom containing hot water for diluting, the middle layer holding a strong black tea, and the upper layer holding an herbal or mint tea.  These three layers would be mixed upon serving and possibly sweetened with sugar, jam or honey.  Meals are most often taken at home in Russia, so tea is the social solution, whether going out for a cup or inviting someone over.  Today, simple black tea is the variety of choice and is always served to guests with some kind of food (generally sweets, but savory items can be served to friends).  Sugar and milk are usually available on the Russian table.  Tea, like any other social occasion is an excuse for fellowship and long conversation. 
    Goodness, I still have a lot of reading to do on this subject.  After all, I only got through the intro from Yoder's paper Myth and Memory in Russian Tea Culture (give me a break, it's 25 pages, nobody pays me for this).  Of course tea had an impact on plenty more cultures than those I've discussed.  It is amazing how such a little thing like tea can have such a distinct influence on culture, economics and politics.  Drinking tea can apparently give you a transcendent experience as well cure your tummy-ache, assuming the smugglers didn't cut it with something unsavory (would that make it sweet?).  There are plenty of links below if you want to do a little more reading, but it's time for me to get some sleep.  I hope you've enjoyed the exploration as much as I have.




China - http://www.china.org.cn/learning_chinese/Chinese_tea/2011-07/15/content_22999489.htm
China - http://www.tenren.com/teahistory.html
India - http://www.tea.in/history
India (with general timeline) - http://assamteaxchange.com/abouttea/history.asp
India - http://www.deeshaindiatea.com/history-of-indian-tea.html
Japan - http://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2041.html
Japanese Tea Ceremony - http://japanese-tea-ceremony.net/history.html
Japan - http://www.uptontea.com/shopcart/information/INFOJapanHist.asp
Japan - https://www.itoen.co.jp/eng/allabout_greentea/history_of_tea.html
England - http://www.tea.co.uk/page.php?id=95
England - http://www.britainexpress.com/History/tea-in-britain.htm
English Afternoon Tea - http://www.afternoontea.co.uk/information/history-of-afternoon-tea/
Russia- http://gorussia.about.com/od/russian_drinking/a/Tea-Time-In-Russia-Russian-Teatime-Traditions.htm
Russia - http://www.pitt.edu/~slavic/sisc/SISC8/yoder.pdf
Russia - http://www.teamuse.com/article_001202.html
Russia - http://www.russianlife.com/blog/tea-time-in-russia/